Serendipity ... My arse.

The word "serendipity" comes from the island of Sri Lanka and means a beautiful happening by chance. I don't know what bloody dictionary the Sri Lankans were using, but it wasn't the same one as me.

I have tried to be fair in my mind to the place for a week, now. I know I was very tired when I arrived - it took 21 hours exactly to get from my hotel in Koh Lanta to my hotel at the Elephant Orphanage at Pinnehwala. It is also not the fault of the island that it was the worst room I have ever been in - I am still recovering from the sores that were a gift from the wildlife that lived in my bed. As you arrive at the airport, it is quite surreal as the Duty Free area has nothing in it but 23 identical shops all selling giant fridges, tellies and washing machines. Now I don't know about you, but I have never been struck by the need to purchase White Goods to take to the beach.

Another idiosyncracy of the island is that noone will either sell or buy the currency except on Sri Lanka itself - I appear to be not the only person/country that has fallen out with it. I am met by jeering scorn in the two countries I have been in before and since when I have tried to carry out a transaction, and so am left with a large quantity of useless and annoying currency.

Anyway, the elephants did seem to be well looked after, if slightly exploited for the tourists. I guess it is still better than being shot though. At least I hope it is. Does anyone remember Dumbo's mother??

Kandy was a noisy and busy city in the same way that Jabba the Hut is slightly overweight and grumpy. It is a mad, heaving, dusty, noisy smelly nightmare to which I hope never to return. I arrived there after being sold an immense quantity of Ayuverdic "medicine" by the biggest chancer I have ever met, and by god I've met a few. Dr Sekarin had cured his own epilepsy - 7 seizures a day - after his own pharmaceutical medicine didn't work and made him go bald - I know we've all read that side effect on the back of Neurontin packs, guys. Anyway he didn't know what I did for a living, so it was all quite good fun, and if I hadn't been laughing so much I might not have bought so much bollocks, however pure, natural Sandalwood Oil is good wherever it comes from.

At Kandy I was staying at the Swiss Residence which is "A perfect blend of the Swiss and the Sri Lankan". I mean, can you imagine the city fathers standing around having a quiet smoke and saying to themselves, "Now, we've got the temples, and the botanical gardens, what we really need is a blend of Swiss and Sri Lankan to really finish it all off..."

All I can say is that it looked and felt Italian to me. I do not know why, but as I am fond of my European brothers, I just had a stiff drink and went to bed.

Comments

[Mantha]

Hey there Aileen. God, I'm so sorry that you have found Sri Lanka so hideous. For any other readers, I would like to say that when I was there in September of this year I utterly loved it. I chose to steer clear of cities, so have no comment on Kandy, but everyone I met (I think without exception) were lovely, generous and welcoming. Yes, the facilities can be basic, but it isn't a wealthy country, so if you want to do more than hang around the 5 star beach resorts with the honeymooners, you may have to rough it a little. But so what? The wildlife was fantastic and the scenery beautiful. Of course they have their problems, and I have read that the newly elected PM is a hard-liner which is somewhat worrying. But I feel that, like many other places, Sri Lanka has more to it than it's internal political struggles. A fellow traveller visited Trincomolee in the NE (against advice because of the TTs) and again, found it wonderful. I am truly sorry it did not live up to Thailand for you, but I just wanted to try and even the balance a tad, as I loved it.

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